Lot 352

1850-70 Excelsior London Top Hat w/ Kiowa Beadwork

Estimate: $750 - $1,500

Bid Increments

Price Bid Increment
$0 $5
$50 $10
$100 $25
$500 $50
$1,000 $100
$2,000 $250
$5,000 $500
$10,000 $1,000
$25,000 $2,500
$100,000 $5,000
The lot features a circa 1850-1870 top hat from Excelsior T.M. Lyon of New London, Connecticut, which has been recently adorned with early Civil War accoutrements and a Kiowa Native American Indian hide beaded hat band. The hat itself shows an American Stovepipe (stove pipe) early Civil War era top hat constructed of a beaver-like felt skin (imitation), which carries the original label on the inside that reads, “Excelsior Cor. Bank & Court – STS New London T.M. Lyon”. The hat comes with a handwritten note inside the brim, which states the maker and also states “Nothing After 1870”, inferring the brand was closed circa 1870. The hat is adorned with various 19th Century accoutrements, later additions that were likely added contemporarily, from the Civil War era, such as uniform brass buttons from Horstmann Philada. (3), three copper covered uniform metal buttons, and one large brass headstall rosette spot. The two outside spots hold a waxed thread strung with red white heart beads, Maltese Cross/Papal Cross French beads, Russian wound glass cobalt blue beads, and a single red feather Venetian bead. The front spot is wrapped with a black ribbon. At the base of the hat is an Indian tanned hide, soft supple hat band, which is covered in geometric glass trade seed and pony beadwork and ties at the back, likely of a Kiowa pattern, with a background of semi-transparent rose, chalk white, greasy blue, and greasy white. This is similar to the example sold by Dan Morphys Auction in 2019 for $5,500, with beaded band, stovepipe tall top, and flat brim. Most examples are early original hats with early original adornments and a later pairing. Measures overall 8”H by 11.25” W by 12 5/8” D, with the inside hat head circumference being approximately 21.5” L.
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